The Right Tool for the Job: What You Need to Build a Canoe

When you're about to embark on your first canoe build, naturally you'll want to outfit your workshop with the right tools. Even if you're just beginning to think about the process, knowing what's involved can help you decide whether canoe-building is for you.

Although our primary advice is to read Canoecraft two or three times before you begin, we thought an online list of recommended tools might come in handy. If the list looks lengthy, be reassured that not everything here is essential. You can even build a canoe using just hand tools, so long as you're aware that certain aspects may be much more time-consuming.

Exactly what you'll need also varies on whether you purchased a kit or are working from scratch. For instant, kit builders won't need to work about cutting out their station molds with a saber saw or band saw. Tools that are helpful but completely optional in either case are marked as such, and alternative choices are given in the comments column.

Simple tools made from scrap wood (e.g. jigs and push sticks) aren't included here. Instead, the relevant chapters of Canoecraft describe elements like this that can be made at home.

TOOL	USE	COMMENTS
Cutting Tools
Portable circular saw (optional)	Cutting strongback parts
Saber saw	Cutting out station molds and decks	Alternative: band saw
Crosscut handsaw	Cutting straight lines
Coping saw	Trimming planks	Alternatives: Japanese razor saw, dovetail saw, or backsaw
Table saw	Ripping planks, gunwales, keel	Use hollow-ground combination planer blade
Dovetail saw	Cutting hardwood trim and planking to length	Alternatives: fine-tooth hacksaw, backsaw, razor saw
Utility knife	Trimming fiberglass cloth	Keep sharp blades available
Scissors	Trimming fiberglass cloth	Don't use your best pair
Shaping and Fairing Tools
Block plane	Fairing the hull and stems; shaping the ends of the planks where they meet at the bottom of the hull; fitting decks; shaping gunwales	Alternative: spokeshave. Buy a good one. Low angle preferred
Surform	Shaping curved surfaces; shaping cured epoxy	Flat and curved bottom blades
Spokeshave	Smoothing compound curves as in shaping thwarts; fairing hull in tight spots where plane won't fit	Very handy general workshop tool. Buy a good one. Flat sole.
Paint scraper	Rough-shaping hull; cleaning up epoxy	Buy extra blade
Cabinet scraper	Shaping hardwood	Nice-to-have shaping and smoothing tool
Rasp (optional)	Shaping and rounding edges on epoxy and trim	Both rounds and flat are useful
Router (optional)	Shaping trim; putting bead and cove edge on planking	Must be used in a router-table setup for planking. Handheld on trim
1/4" and 1 1/4" chisel	Shaping and fitting	Very useful
Sharpening stone	Maintaining keen edge on cutting tools	Sharp tools are safer than dull ones
Mill file	Sharpening scraper blade;	Smoothing metal edges on bolts, stem bands
Sanding Tools
Sanding block	Makes the most of your sandpaper	Buy shaped rubber block, or make from scrap wood or foam
Long board	Alternative to power sander; easier to avoid low spots	Also called file board (speed file). Use with sandpaper for rough and fine sanding of hull
5" round or 6" random orbital sander	Ideal for almost all sanding operations	Fairly inexpensive, easily controlled power tool that will save a lot of time
Tack cloth	Wiping off sanded surfaces before applying finish	Indispensable
Fastening Tools
Staple gun	Fastening planks to stations	For use with 9/16" staples
Staple puller	Lifting staples	Tack puller, or bend and pad end of flat screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers	Removing staples once heads are exposed
Screwdrivers	To fit screws you are using
Drill and wood bits	Predrilling and countersinking screw holes; driving screws	Hand or power drill; countersink bit to fit screw sizes
Counterbore and plug cutter (optional)	Counterboring screw holes for plugs in gunwales and seats
C-clamps	Clamping stems, gunwales, decks, and thwarts	Minimum half-dozen 2 1/2"; more will speed up some jobs; make your own
Center punch	Starting holes in brass stem band
Fiberglassing tools
Mixing containers	Mixing resin and hardener	Use paper coffee cups or small tin cans. You will need about 1 dozen
Tin pie plate (optional)	Pouring out mixed resin before application	Resin will not set as fast in a thin layer
Stir sticks	Mixing resin and hardener	Scraps of planking or tongue depressors
Syringe	Applying glue to bead-and-cove planking	Curved nozzle is best
Glue brushes	Gluing gunwales and trim	Small, disposable. Acid brushes
Epoxy roller (optional)	Applying last coats of epoxy; varnishing	1/8" foam; no substitutes
Squeegee	Leveling first coat of resin and applying second coat
Paintbrush	Applying first and last coat of epoxy and varnishing	One 2 1/2" to 3" short-bristled, cheap. One 2" to 3", good quality
Mini-pumps	Dispensing resin and hardener; one shot of each gives desired resin/hardener ratio
Putty knife	Cleaning up excess glue; applying filler	A flexible blade is desirable
Clean rags	Cleaning up	Keep large supply on hand; white, cotton
Measuring Tools
Metal tape measure
Tri-square	Setting up mold	Small (12") metal
Level	Setting up mold	2' size
Taut line	Determining long, straight lines	Heavy fishing line
Safety
Dust mask or respirator	Machining and sanding	Disposable model or one with replacement filters
Waterless hand cleaner	Clean skin without using solvents
Gloves	Preventing epoxy skin irritation	Disposable plastic; surgeon's gloves are ideal. Work gloves
Fan	Controlling dust and fumes	Window fan is acceptable
Basic first-aid kit
Barrier cream	Prevents skin irritation	Use above gloves; bad reaction if used under
Eye protection
Step stool or milk crate	Improve perspective and safety	Be sure it is absolutely stable

The Right Tool for the Job: What You Need to Build a Canoe

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